• Avoid having your dog retrieve the bird you’re going to have mounted.

• If your bird is still alive, avoid wringing its neck. An effective method is to hold the bird on its belly and apply pressure with your hand. This will deflate the lungs and cause minimal damage to the plumage

• Do not carry or hold the bird by the neck. Always carry the bird by its feet.

• A great way to hold the bird in place is to put it in a nylon stocking head first.  This will help keep the plumage in place and, again, cause minimal damage. (Your hunting partner will get over it!)

• Try to keep your specimen cool and aired while in the field.

• Before placing your specimen in a freezer, carefully place the head under a wing and wrap tightly in a plastic bag. 

• DO NOT WRAP IN PAPER OR FOIL.

• Try to get your specimen to your Taxidermist as soon as possible. 

• If you can’t, double or triple wrap your specimen in plastic bags. This will keep the bird from getting freezer burn.

• Avoid storing your specimen in a frost-free freezer for any length of time.  This will dry out your specimen faster causing freezer burn. Once your trophy is mounted and home, do not place above or near a wood stove, fireplace, or anywhere that there may be intense heat.

Bear Rug Incision
The First diagram below will show you where to make your incisions when skinning out your bear for a Rug.  Start your incision at the anus and run it up to the top of the chest, keeping it centered.  Make a second incision from the back of the pad on the front foot across the chest to the back of the pad on the other front foot.  Your third incision should be made from the back of the pad on the rear leg through the anus to the back of the pad on the other rear foot.

DIAGRAM #1

Life - Size and Rug Skinning Method
The Ventral or Case Incision should be used if you are undecided wether or not you want a Rug or a Life-Size Mount.  Start your incision at the back of the pad on the rear leg.  Continue the incision to the back of the pad on the opposite foot.  Cut about 2 inches below the anus, make sure NOT to cut through the anus.

DIAGRAM #2

Life - Size Skinning Method
The Dorsal Incision should only be used if you plan on having a Life-Size Mount done.  Start at the base of the tail and run your incision up the bears back and end at the base of the skull, keeping your incision centered.

DIAGRAM #3

1/2 or 3/4 Mount Skinning Method
If you would like to have a 1/2 or 3/4 Mount done I would recommend skinning your Bear out using the Ventral Incision.  See Diagram #2 above.

Shoulder Mount Skinning Method
If you plan to have a shoulder mount done with your bear than go ahead and remove the front paws off your bear, at the wrist.  Than make an incision approximately 6" behind the front shoulder around the circumference of the animal.  The Diagram below will give you an idea where to make your incisions.  Remember to always leave plenty of skin!  Your taxidermist can always remove it later.  Better to have to much than not enough.  We can't add what isn't their to begin with!
DIAGRAM #4

Skinning. . . . . . .
Once you have made your incisions and begin the skinning process you will have to sever the paws off the carcass at the wrist and ankle joint leaving them in the hide.  This will help free up the skin.  When you get to the head go ahead and sever the head at the base of the skull leaving it in the hide as well.  You don't have to remove the skull or paws out of the skin if you are going to get the hide right to the freezer or to your taxidermist.  Be careful when you get around the genital area.  If you remove them or cut through them you will lack this detail on a Life Size mount.  If you decide to have a rug done these can be removed later.

Field Care. . . . . . .
It is important, once the Bear is down, get it skinned out.  Bear will hold their body heat for a long time especially if it's large and carrying a lot of fat.  Once the bear is skinned out, get it to a freezer or to a taxidermist as soon as possible.  You will want to keep the hide as cool and dry as possible.  Don't put the hide in a plastic bag.  Place it in a burlap bag, it will allow air to circulate and keep flies and other insects off your trophy.  It will also allow heat and fluids to escape.

Heat and moisture are a hides worst enemy.  They promote bacteria growth that will cause the hair to slip (hair falling out), sometimes in large patches.  Once this has started it doesn't stop until all the hair has fallen out of the infected area.  If it is hot outside you will need to work as quickly as you can.  If it is below 40 degrees you will have a little more time to work.

DO NOT. . . 

*  Leave the cape / Skin in a walk in cooler for longer than 48 hours.

*  Get the cape / skin wet. 

*  Lay the Skin in the sun, keep it in the shade.

*  Drag the animal behind a 4-wheeler when bringing it out of the woods.  This can damage the hair and cause bald spots.

*  Ride the animal / hide around in the back of your truck all day showing it off to friends and family.  Take pictures and get the animal in the freezer or to the taxidermist

Freezing. . . . . . .
If you decide to freeze the hide don't roll the hide......FOLD IT!  It will help the hide thaw out more evenly and quicker.  Also don't put the skull in the middle of the hide when folding.  It can take up to 3 days for a bear skull to freeze all the way buried in the hide.  When you put the hide in the freezer place it on a plastic bag NOT in it, to prevent it from sticking to the freezer.  After the animal is frozen than place it inside a couple plastic bags.